An Aussie Kids First Bearded Dragon
*with an Introduction to the Parent/Caregiver of the Budding Herpetologist
I'm going to tell you why a Bearded Dragon is a good Australian Reptile to keep as your own first Reptile.
But, before we talk about the fun side. Let me just tell you the main rule, the bottom-line of owning, keeping and raising your Beardie.
First and Foremost - research the Reptile you want to keep next, apply for your Reptile Keepers Permit Class1 from National Parks & Wildlife Service. (It's possible to download an application from the NPWS website). This will take approximately 4-6 weeks to be in force after you have sent your application form and fee. Take this time to continue researching and constructing a habitat for your new pet.
Give this a minutes thought - these will be your responsibilities.
it will NEED heat
it will NEED light
it will NEED food
it will NEED water
it will NEED contact with you - and once they are in the tank they cannot escape to find their own needs - you are who they depend on.
Here are some questions for you to ask yourself:
Do you really care about animals?
Have you got at least a half hour everyday to feed your lizard and have contact with it? if no, don't get one. if yes. good. You will need that much time at least to prepare the food and to watch him eat and play!
Have you time to clean a cage of droppings and excess food daily?
Are you someone who will read books and check sites, get books from the library and ask others who know more than you do, any question that you dont know the answer to? If yes, good.
If no. You may like a pet rock.
Do you lose interest easily in pets? if no, this is good, this will be a great experience. if yes, then dont get a Bearded Dragon. They have long life spans and cannot be released into the wild if you get tired of them (you won't get tired of them)
Have you got chores to do that will allow you to buy crickets and extra suppiles, plus maybe even pay Veterinarian bills? if yes, good. if no, discuss this with your parents/guardian.
Did you know all wild Australian reptiles are protected and any form of cruelty or mistreatment is to be reported as it is an offense by law? If no, well now you know. There are very hefty fines for neglect of your captive animal also.
Getting to know them
One of the nice thing about beardeds is that they dont seem to mind you being there really..they will show you that they own their tank. He will turn very black underneath his chin and flare out his beard and spikes, flatten and puff out his belly, he will sometimes open his huge orange mouth and hiss. He is using instinctive behaviour to make himself look bigger and more frightening.
Do not be dismayed if your dragon 'displays'. its a natural territorial - mating - defense. It's not a sign of anger or aggression. He's not cranky really I promise you, he is usually showing you that you have come too close when he wasn't expecting you or you've put your hand in his territory. Just leave him alone for a bit. Sometimes i leave mine to display for a little while, because its natural, You will get to know your own dragon and find out he can be picked up at any time.
I personally believe if your bearded dragon isnt displaying once in a while, he's not a happy Dragon. Check his tank temperatures and diet.
Set up his territory
They dont like to be moved around from tank to tank. set up a good sized tank (thats another one of the fun parts) that will last them a lifetime. REMEMBER that can be a long time. They will claim favourite places to bask and to cool down, they will bob heads, run about, wave arms, bask like a bump on a log for hours, lick - (not really licking more like investigating with their sensitive tongue) everything in sight. They will respond to their own reflection in the glass and wave their arms at themselves.
When you first get your new Bearded try to allow it to adjust to its new surroundings. Pick it up as little as possible in the first week. He will become used to his new home in this time and be much happier.
Set Up tips
All of these products can be found at your local petshop or specialist reptile supply stores.
You will need.
a secure, escapeproof 55-75 gallon tank. Glass only.
The new tank must be cleaned before you begin your setting up. Wipe it down, both inside and out, with a 2/10 part vinegar solution.
UV lighting tube on a timer for at least 8 hours a day. Natural light is necessary to protect them from vitamin D deficiencies - but never place a tank next to a sunny window. That's like putting them under a magnifying glass!
Water bowls should be big enough for your Dragon to get into and soak... have it made of something heavy, because they can be rough and tip them over. They will need clean water daily.
Heat. Make sure that he has a 'cool end' with plants, water bowl, and hollow logs and a "basking end" at 35°C with his heat lamp rocks and high branches. Two thermometres set in the tank is a good idea.
Substrata, or groundbase - bark, clean salt free sand, recycled paper litter, newspaper, rocks or mulch. place this over the base of the tank up to 6 cms deep.
Furniture: Rocks, hollow logs, branches, plants - either artificial or certain types of live plants. Artificial are best for starters. They like these to hide and camouflage.
Branches and rocks that you find outside can be treated before you place them in the tank, with a bleach spray and lots and lots of rinsing and drying in the sun. Involve Mum or Dad in the bleaching. 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. You will only need to bleach once, after that, when you are cleaning the tank; hose the logs etc., down with tap water and leave in the sun to dry.
Build your own caves and cool spots from rocks and branches. of course, make sure theyre very safe and won't move if theyre stepped upon by little feet!
Some extra ornaments for the budding home decorator - I have treated and washed shells, a small roman earthenware column, earthenware angel heads that serves as a ledge for basking, large polished pebbles near the water bowl, a very large glass jar with pebbles in the bottom makes a nice warm spot, a small hollow piece of old pottery makes a nice cool spot.
NOTE: make sure nothing is painted with a toxic paint, (Dragons will lick it out of curiosity) no sharp or dangerous edges, nothing that could trap the animal.
Feeding preferences.
They can be fed insects such as mealworms, crickets, grasshoppers and beetles. Make sure that no poisons, herbicides or fertilisers have been used if you forage insects from the wild. Live food is best as it encourages their hunting instinct. Provide a varied diet of insects and vegetables at any one feed. We occasionally offer other food like good quality minced meat and very occasionally; pinky mice.
For an adult Beardie - feed once every 2-3 days; for one under 6 months feed daily. Soft mealworms, worms, moths, slaters, woodies. Supplement with bearded dragon pellets and coat the food with Insectivore and calcium powder 3 times a week.
Give them veges : red lettuce, peas, squash, celery, carrot, dandelion greens and flowers, alfalfa, milk thistle, clover leaves, chickweed and flowers.
If you put the small and soft mealies in the veggies the beardies will get the taste of the veggies while going for the mealies.
They like fruit - grapes, strawberries, apple, banana.
Remember, your Beardie will slow his eating pattern during the colder months. Don't be worried if he is not eating unless he seems unwell.
How to handle your Dragon
NB: Always wash your hands before and after handling your Beardie for his healths sake as well as yours.
After they have gotten used to you and the surroundings they are happy to be picked up.
To pick him up - place one hand under the belly and turn it to support the front and back legs by holding it lengthways. Place your other hand on top of the dragon. they like to sit on shoulders and hang on clothing. You will see why they are called 'velcro lizards' when you pry it from your tshirt.